This is a follow-on post to my previous one about how to get a certain DR value for the lowest cost possible. Well, the lowest cost possible without dressing up a a wicker statue. Or a tree.
I'm biased that way.
Still, I promised to revisit this for the wealthy, and so for GURPS-Day today, here we go.
Introduction Repeated
GURPS Low Tech is a pretty darn good book. There's a lot of value there, and even more so in the three companions.
There are a few books out, such as Instant Armor, and the forthcoming Low Tech Armor Loadouts, that help whittle down the very large job of choosing armor kit. It took me a very, very long time to assemble the armor for Cadmus, my Warrior Saint in +Nathan Joy's game.Along the way, I put together a spreadsheet. It took permutations of the various armor types in Low Tech, with quality and heaviness modifiers. I then sorted it by DR, and calcualted Cost/DR as well as Weight/DR.
Here, I present a long summary table of the results of that work, this time sorted by DR per unit weight. I've removed enough material that you can't do without the book (and I'm still not even remotely sorry).
Warriors Unburdened
My premise here is less simple than last time, where you were starting off on a budget.This time, you've either purchased enough Wealth or starting cash that you can skip the cheap stuff, or you have been around the block a few times and can afford to upgrade. That's exactly what happened to Cadmus, as a by-the-way. I started with a complex and unbalanced set of armor, as follows:
1xMail, Plate, and Leather Armor Panoply
- 1× Boots, Leather ($80; 3 lb; DR 2)
- 1× Cloth, Padded Undersuit (Shoulders, Upper Arms, Legs, Torso; Reduced Cost (-20%); $88; 13.2 lb; DR 1*)
- 1× Gauntlets, Medium Segmented (Reduced Cost (-20%); $72; 2.4 lb; DR 4)
- 1× Layered Leather, Medium (Front Forearms, Front Knees, Front Shins; Leather of Quality; $440; 10.4 lb; DR 4)
- 1× Mail and Plates (Shoulders, Front Thighs, Front Torso; Reduced Cost (-20%); $924; 16.5 lb; DR 5)
- 1× Mail, Heavy (Upper Arms, Back Thighs, Back Torso; Cheap; Reduced Cost (-20%); $316.8; 14.85 lb; DR 4*)
- 1× Plate, Medium (Full Helm, Padding; Reduced Cost (-20%); $612; 7.8 lb; DR 7);
After we adventured for a bit, we came into a bit of money. Cadmus can't keep more than he can carry by Holy Vow, but good armor is expensive. I upgraded!
This cost me a favor from the party merchant prince, and about $12,000 in cash. While the low-level Fortify and Lighten spells are more expensive in Nate's game because he wants all magically enchanted stuff to start from a base of at least +1 Cost Factor (a good rule; no enchanting crap stuff), the big changes is that I'm now equally protected on front and back, and my encumbrance while armored dropped from Medium to Light - a big deal.
So, where's the awesome when you have money to burn?

Well, while this might not be enough protection to do much other than protect against incidental contact and angry kittens (maybe), you can at least do this in some semblance of style here.
The DR 1 go-to by far is fine light leather. This low-end protection can be yours at 3.3 lbs, which isn't bad for covering your full torso (but not arms, legs, which add their usual +150% to the weight and cost of these figures).
For the next level of non-protection, you are, interestingly enough, looking at cheap versions of otherwise very expensive armors as well. Light brigandine is nice if you need to not be quite so obvious and comes in at ten pounds, while cheap plate that is usually DR 3 but downgraded due to being cheap Both will ring your cash register for $350-400, so you're paying nearly $200 per point of DR - but both combined cost less than fine light leather!
Low-end Serious
DR 3 is enough to provide just less than average proection against a 1d attack. So it's just enough to pretend you're wearing armor, and honestly, there are times, like getting hit to the vitals, where with that x3 wound multiplier, removing 9 points of injury really is the difference between life and death.
DR 3 is enough to provide just less than average proection against a 1d attack. So it's just enough to pretend you're wearing armor, and honestly, there are times, like getting hit to the vitals, where with that x3 wound multiplier, removing 9 points of injury really is the difference between life and death.
If you've got money to burn, fluted DR 3 plate is the way to go.Thing is, that fluting is a very large cost multiplier for a very small weight reduction, so just regular-old boring DR 3 plate is probably a slightly better bet, as it comes in at 8 lbs for front -and back protection to the torso.
Decent Serious Protection
Now at DR 4-5 you're looking at being protected vs. the average damage from a 1d or 1d+1 attack, or being completely protected vs. 1d-2 or 1d-1, which doesn't look like much, but it effectively renders you proof against unarmed punches of up to ST 12 to 14, which ain't all bad.The king here will always wind up being plate armor. It's nearly too good, but then again, you are paying thousands or even nearly ten of thousands of dollars for the privilege here.
So duplex and hardened plate are the tickets for the uber-rich. You're still talking about 8 lbs, or slightly less, but you're sporting DR 4.
Again for the sneaky and fashionable set, the 10-lb hardened light brigantine is pretty interesting too, and if you drop down to light hardened mail. it's still expensive (and not rigid), but literally half the cost of the more-expensive plate or brigantine.
We don't yet have a piece of torso armor that breaks the ten grand mark yet - but we're getting darn close
Starting to Tank Out
DR 6 and DR 7 are the points where you would normally find plate armor, and so you do. In fact, without magic the only way you can achieve DR 7 using Low Tech and Instant Armor that doesn't involve some form of plate is hardened jousting mail (for $7500).
But that's not even the most expensive non-magical armor - though a sorting error has provided a nice example of where you can get with magical help, with Mail and Plates (usually starting at DR 5) being slapped with Ornate, Fortify +2, and Lighten for just shy of $10K.For DR 6, you are still throwing down with hardened and duplex plate, with a very large price increase being paid to save about a pound and a half going from hardened to duplex.
If you don't mind mail and 18 lbs instead of 14.4 lbs, you can go with hardened heavy mail, which is TL2, DR 6, and not stupidly expensive.
You Wanna Wear WHAT?
Oh, you can now wear plate, plate, plate, plate, and look . . . more lembas bread.
Mmmmm.
But yeah, in the DR Crazyland realm you can basically count on hardened and duplex plate being the best combination of weight per DR you can get short of physics-busting stuff.
You Can do Magic . . .
Adding magic adds cost, and can add a lot of it. If money really is no object, you want Lighten 1/2 and Fortify +2 - more if you can get it, but I'll assume you can't. There's really no trick here - take the best armor per unit weight, cut that weight in half (and pay through the nose for it), and you might as well add +2 DR through magic while you're at it.
Parting Shot
Actually, when you really look at it, and I should have long ago, the answer to "best protection per unit weight is duplex plate all the way from DR 4 on up. Not terribly surprising, but also very, very expensive. I think even without Nate's house rules, DR 10 duplex plate runs more than $20K (we double cost for TL4, and my sheet says it's over $40K, so . . . )
So ultimately, this is less interesting in terms of choices than the "do it on a budget" post was, largely because there's really only one answer - wear plate - unless other things intervene.
Such things can be concealability (brigantine, probably) or being not metal for noise, electrical conductivity, or if it interferes with tropes such as no metal armor for spellcasters.
There's also the fact that even at 3-ish pounds per point of DR, DR 11 duplex plate is still 32 lbs for just your torso, and about 90 lbs for a full suit including a helm.




